Tucked away in a modest strip mall in Laguna Hills, California, the Snooty Fox defies its highfalutin name with down-to-earth prices and comfort food that makes your taste buds do a happy dance.

A slice of key lime pie offers that ideal citrusy counterpoint to a fried seafood meal, the tartness cutting through the richness like a refreshing ocean breeze. What you won’t find at O’Steen’s is ...